Yes, Puerto Rico is a part of the United States.
International travel can be a headache. Everyone knows that. People typically don't look forward to it. Instead the conversation of international travel is something akin to having major dental work. Naturally, people avoid traveling internationally when possible, unless it's somewhere close. Say, the Caribbean. On top of that, most Caribbean island visitors arrive via ships as large as sky scrapers with populations that rivals some small universities. But what if you wanted to go visit the Caribbean without A) the headache of international travel, and B) being on board a floating buffet? Well, then you have come to the right place, because today I'm going to tell you about how you can get to paradise without a passport.
A History Lesson
First, let me start off with a little bit of a history lesson about Puerto Rico. Firstly, I am Puerto Rican. I know, shocking right? Not really. After all, my name is Carlos Martinez. It's pretty much a dead giveaway. What is shocking though, is the fact that some people think that I am a Puerto Rican 'immigrant' since I was actually born in Puerto Rico. Puerto Ricans stopped being immigrants around 1917 when the island's inhabitants were granted U.S. citizenship by Congress. That also means that, no matter what you believe or may have read, I cannot be deported, or have my citizenship revoked, or whatever other nonsensical lunacy is floating around the interwebz. That line of thinking is equivalent to saying that people that were born or reside in Kentucky can have their citizenship revoked at any given time. Sure, Puerto Rico may at one point gain independence from the United States which means the conversation will be different for future generations, but for the time being, you guys are stuck with me. Sorry.
What this also means is that you as an American citizen can travel to and from Puerto Rico as much as you desire, without ever having to prove citizenship, go through customs, or any other extra steps required when you travel outside of the United States. Which is good news if you want to have a slice of the Caribbean life without having to worry about exchange rates, customs declarations, and--more importantly--passports.
Flying to Puerto Rico is easy-peasy.
Getting There
The first step after deciding to go anywhere is to look for a way to get there. Unless you own a yacht or are willing to swim to Puerto Rico, you'll need a plane ticket. Luckily for you, almost all the major airlines fly into and out of Puerto Rico's main airport based in the capital of San Juan (SJU). Another bonus is that most of these flights are non-stop depending on your origin. If you're flying from the East coast of the mainland, there's a high probability that you'll be on a flight that will last between 3-4 hours. And less face it, the least amount of time you can spend in a tin can filled with recycled air, the better. Some airlines offer more flights per day than others. For instance, JetBlue averages 51 flights per day to San Juan which offers you a lot of good options for comfortable flights without having to break the bank. Speaking of not breaking the bank, according to the Bureau of Transportation Statistics, in 2015 the average cost of a flight to San Juan was just over $330. Using this as your baseline you can see that air you travel during non-peak seasons and you'll save yourself a considerable amount of money in just airfare alone.
One of the benefits of Puerto Rico's relationship with the United States is that airport is very easy to navigate for those who can't or don't read Spanish. It's also filled with a variety of different chain stores and restaurants that are familiar to the American traveler (think Starbucks). While things on the secure side of the airport are par for the course, where things get interesting is in the baggage claim area. The baggage claim is more like a fish bowl than a typical baggage claim. It's surrounded by semi-frosted windows where the people that are waiting for their cherished travelers have their noses pressed against the glass like zombies looking for food. That's because many years ago, baggage theft at the baggage claim could be considered a sport in Puerto Rico. It became such a problem that the only way to combat it was to institute a No-One-Not-Traveling-Is-Allowed-In policy. Think of it as an extension of the secure area of the terminals. To this point, it is crucial that you keep your luggage receipts that are given to you when you check your bags. Not only do they check these when you are departing the secure zone, they check them religiously. Seriously. On one of my trips there, I misplaced my receipts and I was not allowed to leave until they could verify the tag on my bag with the receipt. Luckily it was just in a different part of my backpack so it wasn't a big deal. I can only imagine what would have happened if I wouldn't have found it.
Guerite on Castillo San Felipe del Morro.
Getting Around
Being part of the United State is a benefit when traveling to Puerto Rico over other Caribbean islands mainly because driving on the island doesn't require any special permits, licenses, or anything else. If you can rent a car in Nebraska, you can rent a car in Puerto Rico. That's the easy part. The hard part is actually driving on the island. Saying that the traffic is a nightmare is an understatement. It's a nightmare, wrapped in a ball of spiders, covered in wasps, and set on fire. Driving on the island will test your patience in ways you never thought possible and could possibly take you right to the brink of insanity. So why is traffic so bad? Well, it's quite simple: there are close to 3.7 million people on an island 100 miles by 35 miles. In short, there are people literally everywhere. And since there is really one major highway to get around the island, it makes navigating in rush hour the chore to end all chores. It also doesn't help that street names can be non-existent throughout the island. While the main roads do have dedicated names that are easy to follow, the smaller streets typically don't. Or if they do, it's a generic name, like "Calle 3" for example. This can make getting around a challenge, especially if you aren't familiar with an area and suddenly find yourself at the corner of Calle 3 and Carretera 3.
Another big thing to understand is that in Puerto Rico there is a strange belief that if a cop/emergency vehicle does not have their emergency lights on, they must not be working. What this means is that you will notice that every single emergency vehicle on the island on one point or another will have its emergency lights on and flashing. This doesn't indicate that there is an actual emergency, it's just a way of letting people know that their civil servants are there and working to improve their lives. Crazy, right?
Staying Put
As with any vacation, where you stay can make or break your trip. When it comes to traveling to Puerto Rico, all the standard chain hotels are available for you to pick from when trying to plan a stay. Where it can get tricky is trying to figure out which region to stay in. The best way to go about figuring this out is by first looking at the island as 4 vastly different regions, and since they aren't officially named, we'll just split the island into 4 quadrants: Northeast, Southeast, Southwest, and Northwest.
Tank on Culebra Beach. Photo by Angel Xavier Viera-Vargas
Northeast
The Northeast region of the island is where the bulk of the travelers coming in and out of the island typically stay. The reason behind this is simple: this is where both the main airport and the main cruise terminals reside. Beyond those two points of entry, some of the best beaches on the planet reside within this region, one if which--Flamenco Beach on the island of Cluebra--consistently ranks as one of the best beaches on planet Earth. The Northeast region is also where you'll find the majority of the top tier, and name brand hotels most of which are nestled on an orange sand beach or if not, close to it.
Besides beaches, the Northeast is also the home to some of best food, the best nightlife experiences, and the best 'tourist' attractions on the island. There are two forts--Castillo San Cristobal and its more famous sister, Castillo San Felipe del Morro--that date back to the 16th and 18th Century. These forts are littered with history which is evident when you walk through or around them. Scars of the prisoners it housed as well as the battles it endured are visible just about everywhere you look. Something that's necessary to point out about San Juan and the surrounding area is that the volume of things to see is almost endless. I've been a tourist in the region more times than I can remember, yet every time I go, I always come across something new. My best advice: take in as much as you can but don't overwhelm yourself.
Palomino Island, exclusively for the guests of El Conquistador.
Outside of the hustle and bustle of San Juan are places like Luquillo, Fajardo, both of which are known for their amazing food and their amazing beaches, Fajardo specifically. One of the more famous hotels in Fajardo is the El Conquistador, which has been continuously ranked as one of islands most luxurious hotels. It even has its own private island--Palomino Island--with access provided solely for guests. Fajardo, which is on the extreme Eastern tip of the island, is also the gateway to some of the more pristine waters you'll ever come across. Culebra is the easiest island to get to as there is a daily ferry to get you there and back. The other islands, such as Icacos, require getting there by private boat. Luckily there are plenty of options when it comes to island hopping tours which gives you ample opportunity to visit these waters.
Lastly, as I could really go on and on about this portion of the island, is the only Rainforest in the US Forest System. El Yunque is a unique place to say the least. Being more than just an overgrown section of trees, there are quite a lot of things to see and do in the park. All of those things involve copious amounts of humidity. The humidity aside, El Yunque National Forest provides some epic views of the island as well as some excellent hiking trails where you can experience the island as it once was and possibly come across native Taino petroglyphs.
Southeast
While the Southeastern quadrant of the island is mostly agricultural and rural, there is one area in this portion of the island that has garnered worldwide attention. The island of Vieques, which is situated a few miles off the Eastern shore, has been shrouded in international controversy. As far back the early 1940's, the United States Navy controlled Vieques and used it as a bombing and targeting range. In the early 2000's, after numerous high-profile protests, the Navy relented and relinquished control of the island to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which maintain the island and the National Wildlife Refuge contained on the island. Given its rough history, the sister island is flourishing. Flights and ferry's launch to the island daily, and if you feel like staying the night, there are a handful of hotels on the island, with the W Retreat & Spa being the most prominent. Getting around the island is easy as well as there are Jeep rental locations scattered throughout the area. One definite thing to see while on Vieques, besides the sugar white sand and the crystal waters, are the remnants of the military stronghold on the island. It can help put into perspective the struggles of the island and its pivotal role in world history.
Southwest
The Southwest portion of the island is anchored by Ponce, which is the largest city right behind San Juan, is the unofficial capital of the southern region of the island. While San Juan is considered a progressive city, Ponce is the exact opposite. It is a town which takes pride in its historical roots and traditions. This is evident in the styling and architecture spread throughout the city which are more in line with traditional Puerto Rico. Something unique to the area is the frequency of well-known festivals which occur within the city headlined by the Carnaval de Ponce, the oldest carnival in the western hemisphere.
Crash Boat Beach. Photo by Ben Schmitt
Northwest
There's a running theme in the Northwest of Puerto Rico: Beach Life or No Life. Just about everything you encounter in this part of the island revolves around the beach and the beach life. More specifically, the surfing lifestyle. While San Juan and the surrounding areas are about the big chain hotels and chain stores, the Northwest caters more to the boutique establishments. The biggest draws of the region are Rincon and Aguadilla, both of which are known for their amazing surf and their beautiful beaches. In Aguadilla, there's Crash Boat Beach, the beach made famous by the painted fishing boats that line the beach front, and the piers left behind by the military. These piers make for excellent snorkel points and jumping off points for the clear waters below. My advice is to just keep your head on a swivel since this is also a popular fishing spot.
Also in the Northwest is Rincon Beach and Domes Beach. Here you will find some insanely secluded beaches where relaxation is key. Not much goes on around these areas, so when you get to the beach, make sure you unplug. While you can swim at Domes Beach, it's more for the surfers as it produces decent waves year round. Domes Beach gets its name from the nuclear reactor that's nestled right on the beach front. The reactor isn't active and the resulting sea-foam green dome is the tomb of the reactor and its components which were encased in solid concrete.
The "Dome" in Domes Beach
To the North, there are two areas in particular that have nothing to do with beaches or surfing but are great stopping points never the less. The first is La Cueva del Indio (The Indian's Cave). This area is a natural rock formation that has some great vantage points to the ocean below. Scattered throughout the area is prehistoric rock art that was left over by the native Taino people. Something to note about this place. It currently sits on private property. Even though this may be the case, there are signs throughout the area directing you how to get there, and when you arrive, the family that owns the home is quite accommodating in welcoming you through their property.
Arecibo Observatory
Lastly, is the Arecibo Observatory. Until July of 2016, the Observatory was the largest radio telescope on the planet when it was surpassed by the telescope constructed in China. The observatory has had many functions during its service life with its most famous objective was the work that it performed for SETI--Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence. Beyond that, it has also been the setting for numerous films including the James Bond movie Golden Eye and Contact to name a few. While it's definitely not beach oriented and doesn't speak to many people as a good stop on a vacation, I would highly recommend it as it is something that you don't get to see very often.
Wrap it up, yo!
Alright, I understand this went on FAR longer than it should have. But, Puerto Rico is a very unique place. It's not the run of the mill places you'll visit and has something for everyone. No two experiences will ever be the same and that's because of the quantity of things that there are to do on the island. Regardless of what kind of vacation you are looking for, your budget, or what you expect to do, there's a good chance Puerto Rico will offer you something memorable. The tagline for the island is "La Isla de Encanto" which means "The Island of Enchantment" and the island really lives up to that. So plan a trip already! What are you waiting for? Make sure you stop by the birthplace of the Pina Colada and bring lots of sun screen! Just don't worry about your passport, you won't need it.